MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
Men’s Collection - Spring-Summer 2013
Maison Martin Margiela showcased the Spring Summer 2013 Men’s Collection during the Paris Menswear fashion week. The collection kicked off with a mix of off-white and white. After sleeveless suit jackets worn with light and fluid pants, the collection then moved toward more personal looks, towards the end the presentation turned to the edgier looks with an amazing trench coat and a range of pants and shirts made out of aluminum looking fabrics.
Shades of white illuminate much of the collection. Real or imitation, painted or printed: silver contrasts with the neutral tonalities. Jacket sleeves are cut, while armholes and shoulders are displaced forward to sculpt and embrace the silhouette. A topcoat, trousers and silver moccasins reflect light and meld with more classic pieces. Exposure to light alters, dims, and partially erases Jacquard motifs and forms shadows under collars, pocket flaps and darts.
Fabrics in this collection are modified and reconverted – their treatments are exclusive. Evening wear is reinterpreted in soft, comfortable materials. The jacket and the pea coat are recast in oversized corduroy. A waistcoat embroidered in strips of napa becomes a summer fur. Pieces in this collection are deliberately treated to appear weathered, aged, repurposed. A suit jacket’s collar is restored using surplus fabric. Once painted, fabric crackles to mark the passage of time. ‘Artisanal’ pieces have a vintage inspiration; a collage of badges borrowed from various periods form a jacket and waistcoat. Bleached printed t-shirts are unstitched and reassembled to create a jacket, waistcoat and trousers.
©2012 The Los Angeles Fashion magazine -
Images courtesy of MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA