Henrik Vibskov SS 2013 – Paris Menswear Week, 2012
When Henrik Vibskov begins creating a new collection, he claims to invent a new universe. His most recent genesis has its foundations in a theme intimately tied to spring and summer: agriculture. The most apparent reference came in the form of a pulsing, amorphous pink-inflatable that alluded to passion fruit. Soon after rolling the mass into the heart of the runway, figures in matching pink bodysuits and black face masks began popping out, immediately confirming that Vibskov’s farm would not be your standard Midwestern fare.
The theme of agriculture carried through in the form of wooden baskets attached to a white block at the back of several models’ heads. Tools of esoteric purposes that matched the inflatable were also a derivative of this motif. The collection was dominated by graphic prints, vibrant colors, and diverse patterns all amalgamated in the same garment; each runway exit germinated a new, bold surprise drawing off the variability found in nature. Laser cut garments—at times comprising entire outfits— made reoccurring appearances, as well as an ultra-modern statement.
It was the modern, paired down women’s wear looks, however, that highlighted Vibskov’s incredible craftsmanship and attention to detail. A tunic paired with gaucho trousers—both in navy—and a bronze and white color-blocked harem jumpsuit stood out in this category. While Vibskov experimented with color and prints, the construction of the clothing generally consisted of traditional sportswear pieces with a quirky twist. A classic letterman’s was lengthened into a voluminous dress with a cascading skirt appearing from the bottom.
White shorts with an exposed, diagonal button fly and a deconstructed, patch-worked blue blazer have a commercial sensibility and wearability. Likewise, the graphic shoes and printed suits serve as potential bold statements and welcomed additions to any ensemble and yet, do not risk being perceived as outlandish. While the color-blocked sweaters and patterned cardigans have an aesthetic that will likely appeal to a more niche crowd, they showcase a Scandinavian minimalism that is widely sought after.
Despite Vibskov’s abstract theme and avant-garde detailing, the practicality of the collection promises commercial success. Vibskov’s labors have yielded a crop of fresh summer fashion, ripening just in time for ravenous consumers to digest.
Image courtesy of - Henrik Vibskov
Runway Pictures by Shoji Fujii
Panorama & Backstage photos by Hörður Ellert Ólafsson
© 2012 The Los Angeles Fashion magazine