London Menswear Collection Day 1
If you asked anyone who the most elegant and fashionable men on earth are, most people would answer the English, with their refined and yet twisted fashion approach, always understated and still full of surprising details. Since its launch last season, the London Menswear Collections proved to be an inevitable event on the fashion calendar along with Paris and Milan and feature during three days 60 designers from luxury brands to up-and-coming designer. All fashionistas will agree on this: there are no other places like London when it comes to street style and fashion liberty, and you just needed to have a look at the Topman show guests (among which model David Gandy, singer Ron Wood and Tinie Tempah) to see this cultural mix of high elegance and eccentric looks. The collection presented by the brand featured masculine color blocking looks either tailored straight or large. The Topman Design man could almost be seen as an explorer without boundaries, dressed in V-shaped backs and fur-collared parkas matched with thin pants covered by high socks and teamed with boots. Out of the color palette (composed of cream, deep red and black), orange is surely the tone that stands out this season (could we have spotted a trend?)
Richard Nicoll also used it widely in his collection, in which he featured XL knee-length coats teamed with tailored graphic bi- toned suits, shiny leather pants and matching double-way zipper jackets and amazingly rich abstract prints. More experimental collections were presented during this first day, among which Lee Roach’s, Craig Green’s and Agi&Sam’s, in which the research in design and fabric were astonishing and confirmed the position of the city as favorite territory for new designers.
The day was closed with Hackett’s show, organized in Saint Paul’s Cathedral, one of the most emblematic building of the city, and confirmed the brand’s capacity to capture the classic English style’s essence. Lou Dalton, John Smedley and Mr Start subtly took the British fashion’s codes to reroute it toward a funkier, more colorful and casual style: quilted foam-like suits and shiny plastic large pants matched with perfectly tailored shirts.
Two more days of 100% menswear shows are to come, do not miss tomorrow’s schedule: Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen will be showing!
By Samuel Schler – twitter.com/samuelschler