A Saturday at fashion week transforms every show, even the most intimate ones, into public events, where fashionistas from the whole city and tourists intrigued by such a big crowd gathering at the entrance of official buildings or sumptuous palaces, try to get a glimpse of the models and celebrities attending the presentations (who very often are ushered by their bodyguards into their black sedans, already running late for their next ephemeral apparition at the other side of the city, stopping the onlookers from getting the picture they had been dreaming of).
We started our day with Martin Grant’s show, who presented a collection in tones of black, off-white and red, on chiffon sleeveless overalls, cotton tailored coats and casually chic fluid dresses, always enhanced by Louboutin heels (and their mythical red soles).
Viktor & Rolf proposed an understated collection, which young and active women will find accessible and easy to wear, most of the pieces matching day or nightwear purposes. Knots featured everywhere: from silky tops teamed with short skirts and flat shiny shoes, to appearances on the sleeves of woolen straight cardigans, as well as bustier chiffon dresses. Leather gave strength to the looks and those peplum jackets and A-line skirts were surely one of the most interesting pieces of the collection.
Textures and colors were at the center of Acne’s fall winter collection, who found their inspirations in antique pieces of clothing exposed at the Musee Galliera in Paris. The exuberant looks were composed of large leather or satin pants in tones of camel, red or deep blue, teamed with deconstructed jackets or fluid cardigans, always playing on layers and volume, resulting in solid looks.
Vivienne Westwood was inspired by the medieval age and presented an eclectic collection that gathered all sorts of different looks and feel: chic white tailored jackets, fluid dresses, working-woman suits, but also crazy knitted black pants, leopard tights, oversized cardigans and Asian-inspired floral pants. A mix online Dame Vivienne could have come up with.
With «The Infinity Of Tailoring », as Kawakubo named it, Comme des garcons explores the endless ways of modeling coats and pants in a colorful and joyful way. The least we can say is that structures were complex and even if the audience was brought close to the catwalk, optimizing the observation of the exquisite details, it would have taken long minutes to actually notice how deep those pieces of arts were.
Jean Paul Gaultier closed the day with a show hosted at the Salla Wagram, an emblematic venue where the designer presented some of his best collections in the 80’s and 90’s, some of which caught Madonna’s attention, the superstar who made the designer famous. For his new collection, the designer brought back the atmosphere of the 90’s and the iconic pieces which made his success (such as pointy bras), but also came up with inventive patchwork fur coats and stunning leather dresses and tops.
By Samuel Schler, twitter.com/samuelschler