Stella McCartney kicked off the day with a collection that once again explores the border between masculinity and feminity, through large pin-striped suits, skirts, and asymmetric jackets. Feminity started to appear from the middle of the collection, with a purple fluid dress and a large wool coat, followed by cut-out bandeau dresses and pants.
Russia is always at the center of Valentin Yudashkin’s collection and this season is no exception. The first look presented, a refined knee length beige fur coat worn with llama hair boots, confirmed the inspirations of the collection and only blizzard was missing to transform the luxurious Westin Palace ball room into deserted Siberia. Crystal-like shorts dresses featured as the best pieces of this collection, along with metalized suits and flared skirts.
It was all about color blocking and asymmetry at the Emanuel Ungaro show. Black and white dots featured on one-sleeved tops, one leg of some pants, on the side of some dresses and on boots, while the other side would be in tones of yellow, blue or ivory. Childish and yet elegant, the designer succeeded at creating style in an unconventional way, which is not an easy task.
Amaya Arzuaga’s show at the Spanish Embassy was a real moment of poesy, during which the designer shared her vision of fashion: geometric shapes on wool architectural dresses, collarless coats and leather pants. Orange and grey broke the totally black looks present at the beginning of the show and gave energy and life to an original collection, out of which some pieces are easy to work and will seduce daring women.
Saint Laurent is going through a massive change, probably the biggest change the brand has ever been through: after changing its name, it seems that Hedi Slimane is decided to change the house’s direction. California grunge was the inspiration of this collection and the reason why everyone after the show was either bewildered or openly shocked. But what is sure is that the little dresses, lace tops and tailored jackets teamed with boots will be a highly appreciated by a younger clientele. This is just a renouveau.
By Samuel Schler, twitter.com/samuelschler